The Fat Diaries: Support Your Local Egg Farm
So, America, what’s on the scare-o-meter for this month? Eggs. We’ve had spinach, dog food, beef, etc., now it’s eggs. Iowa’s Hillendale Farms has issued a recall of over 170 million eggs. This is in addition to the earlier recall of 130 million eggs by Wright County Egg, Iowa. The FDA says the two incidents are linked as are over 2,000 reported cases of salmonella.
The Washington Post has issued a list of brands and batches here (which was current as of Monday).
After that it gets a bit fuzzy. There’s some speculation as to the cause of this outbreak. Everything has been suggested from rodent infestation, pre-infected hens, and poor chicken plant sanitation. Reports of chickens feeding on rat feces, and chicken pens with the rotting carcasses of long deceased birds, are surfacing.
I’ve always found huge caged-chicken plants to be repulsive. My husband, when we were dating, lived in a rural university town where there were several large chicken factories. I loved visiting him, but I hated those chicken plants. Whenever we drove past them a stomach churning odor would penetrate the car, and whenever the wind was in the wrong direction, the entire town would smell of chicken feces and entrails. The fetid smell nearly put me off chicken for life, I was convinced that nothing that gave off that stench of death and filth was humane. Unfortunately when I had to shop on my own budget, chicken thighs and ground chuck were la viande du jour for me.
News stations have been warning people not to eat eggs that aren’t pasteurized. They advised consumers to look for a red stamp on each egg that would indicate that the eggs had been pasteurized. I spent a frustrating ten minutes in the refrigerated section of the grocery store last Sunday, with my husband, trying to determine whether any, all, or none of the eggs for sale were pasteurized. We examined each egg, read every bit of fine print on the carton and argued whether the Eggland’s Best stamp counted as the “red stamp.” It seemed that pasteurized eggs were harder to come by than we thought.
The egg products sold in cartons, like Egg Beaters, are pasteurized (they have to be by law) but did we really need to take that leap? We weren’t making eggnog with these eggs so why the panic? Thorough cooking kills salmonella. These eggs were probably going to end up in quiche or pancakes, and, given my cooking skills, would be cooked until they were a deep crunchy brown. I flinch when I see raw cookie-dough. I wash my hands until they are cracked and raw when I’m cooking with eggs. I would probably be okay.
Congress is gearing up for an investigation of the Iowa farms; the FDA is already there. There are proposals in the works for a new food safety bill concerning plants and factories when the Senate reconvenes, and I say it’s about time. We’ve had so many recalls in the last few years it’s getting to be ridiculous. While at the same time, I’m reminded that the FDA says all non-pastuerized eggs are classified as “potentially hazardous” food.
I spoke to local egg farmers in my county. Most were reluctant to say the salmonella content of their eggs was drastically different from that of industrial chicken plants. After all, they can’t claim there is no risk of salmonella in their eggs. But a representative of Haskin’s Farm stated that sanitation and humane treatment of chickens is a foremost concern: “All our chickens are approved by the National Poultry Improvement Plan.” The NPIP monitors avian disease and tests the flocks for contamination. They also investigate for proof that all chicks are purchased from a reliable source. Allegedly, the Iowa Plants in question did not seek NPIP approval.
I also found out that Jack Decoster, owner of Wright County Farms has had a rather dubious reputation among the agricultural community for years now. One local farmer, who has asked to remain anonymous, recalls being in the industry in Maine at the same time Decoster was operating there. There were allegations of battling his employees and human resources, along with multiple violations and fines levied against his factories.
If you’re worried about the quality of your eggs, it never hurts to ask your local egg suppliers or farmers about their facilities. Take a tour of the farm, if you’re really curious. Most local farms offer tours, especially for kids. John Ulmer of Millcreek Farms (Vice president of the Loudon Valley Homegrown Markets Association) says, “I want you to come to my farm. I want you to come to my competitor’s farm. Question people when you’re on their farm. Ask to see their produce, and their animals. Count their animals. Ask a lot of questions about where it’s processed and packaged.” In these days, where we never see what goes into our food before it hits the stores, it might be time to take a little interest. Bonus: Most farms will sell you their goods at a discount when you visit.
I plan to take Mr. Ulmer up on his offer. The beef at Millcreek is to die for.
